The crisis in the textile industry, also referred to as the collection crisis, refers to a situation of deadlock and profound imbalance in the organization and functioning of the system for sorting, recovering, and recycling used textiles, resulting from multiple tensions at the European and international levels.
The main causes:
- Weakened dependence on international markets
Historically, more than 50% of textiles sorted in Europe were exported outside the EU. These markets have collapsed in the face of increased competition from products (often new or second-hand) from China and the United States, offered at very low prices, making European resale uncompetitive.
- Major regulatory change
Since January 1, 2025, selective textile collection has become mandatory in all European Union countries, which has automatically increased the volumes collected, even though outlets are saturated or closed.
The knock-on effects:
- Saturation of collection points: Due to a lack of rapid disposal options, textiles are accumulating, particularly at collection points, which no longer have space to store them.
- Illegal dumping: Local authorities are faced with uncollected waste due to insufficient collection services.
- Economic pressure: Sorters and recyclers are experiencing a drop in resale prices and difficulty in maintaining a viable business model.
- Inadequate infrastructure: Industrial textile recycling capacities in France and Europe are still largely insufficient to handle these increased volumes.
- Uncertainty for marketers: Faced with a disorganized industry, companies are struggling to anticipate market developments and adapt their business models.